Monday, April 2, 2012

The Lucky One (Charnwood)

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The Lucky One (Charnwood)

The Lucky One (Charnwood)

In his 14th book, bestselling author Nicholas Sparks tells the unforgettable story of a man whose brushes with death lead him to the love of his life.

Is there really such thing as a lucky charm? The hero of Nicholas Sparks's new novel believes he's found one in the form of a photograph of a smiling woman he's never met, but who he comes to believe holds the key to his destiny. The chain of events that leads to him possessing the photograph and finding the woman pictured in it is the stuff of love stories only a master such as Sparks can write.

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Saturday, February 18, 2012

Alice's Adventures in Wonderland

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Wednesday, January 25, 2012

HAI HOME AUTOMATION 17A009 HAI 16 ZONE, 16 OUTPUT EXPANSI

!: Order HAI HOME AUTOMATION 17A009 HAI 16 ZONE, 16 OUTPUT EXPANSI ideas

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Post Date : Jan 25, 2012 02:27:33 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


The 17A00 Expansion Enclosure adds 16 inputs for additional security, fire, temperature, humidity, and automation inputs, a battery backed and supervised power supply for additional system power, and 16 voltage outputs for control. The 17A00 can be mounted up to 1000 feet away from the OmniPro II controller and has its own power supply and backup battery capability. It is commonly used for additional security / fire zones, and control of pumps, motors, commercial lighting, remote control breakers, and sprinkler systems. 17A00-1 is in an OmniPro II enclosure. 17A00-9 is on a 20A07-2 Universal Mounting plate for use in structured wiring enclosures.

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Thursday, January 19, 2012

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Friday, January 13, 2012

SPRINKLER PUMP 1.5 HP

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Thursday, January 5, 2012

What Are Wind Power Generators?

!: What Are Wind Power Generators?

This 200 B.C. invention, earlier known as wind mill as it was used primarily to grind grains and in addition cut lumbers and pump water for irrigation, has seen continuous improvement in design and efficiency. These were essentially vertical axis windmills having long vertical drive shafts with rectangular shaped blades.

It became known as wind power generators, once it was started to be used for converting mechanical energy created by the rotation of the blades into rotating a turbine to generate electricity. These generators are generally of two types.

Horizontal axis wind power generators have a rotor component. It is a three blade component that converts wind energy into rotational mechanical energy. The generator component electronically controlled electric generators with a gearbox component for converting incoming rotational energy to high speed turbine rotation most suited for electricity generation. The structural part comprises of a tower and rotor mechanism. Wind power generators may also be used in conjunction with a vertical solar updraft tower to obtain solar heated wind energy. Some such assemblage has a visitor's deck too.

Vertical axis wind power generators have a vertical arrangement of main rotor shaft. This has an advantage of not requiring turbine to be pointed into the wind for more efficiency. This becomes advantageous in locations where there is highly variable wind direction. The generator and the gear box are placed near the ground requiring no need of support from the tower. This facilitates easy maintenance. However, some design may generate unwanted pulsating torque. These are often installed on ground or on roof top. The wind energy at such places is usually low. There may also be turbulence in the air flow which can create vibration and noise. This results in the faster wearing of bearings. Higher mounting such as building tops gives higher wind energy and less turbulence.

Some more versions of wind power generators are also in use. Eggbeater turbine wind power generators have higher efficiency but are unreliable due to large torque ripples and cyclic stress on the tower. They generally require some kind of external power source since the starting torque is not sufficient to speed up the blades. The torque ripple is reduced by using three or more blades giving higher solidity i.e. higher ratio of blade area to rotor area. The self starting cycloturbine a subtype of Eggbeater uses straight blades in place of curved ones having variable pitch to minimize torque vibration. This gives high starting torque and is more efficient.


What Are Wind Power Generators?

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Friday, December 30, 2011

Dayton 5RWG8 Pump, Sprinkler/Booster, 1-1/2 HP, 3 Ph

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Brand : Dayton | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Dec 31, 2011 05:58:05 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Sprinkler/Booster Pump, Self-Priming, Housing Material Cast Iron, Inlet 1-1/2 In, Outlet 1-1/2 In, 1-1/2 HP, 3 Phase, Voltage 208-230/460, Amps 6.66-6.35/3.33, 60 Hz, Suction Lift 25 Ft., Shut-Off 115 Ft., Max. Pressure 50 PSI, Stages 1, Motor Enclosure TEFC, Motor Type 3-Phase, 3450 RPM, Application Lawn Sprinking, Spraying Irrigation, Draining and General Dewatering Application, Etc., Includes Manual

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Saturday, December 24, 2011

Keep Your Home Safe From Water Damage

!: Keep Your Home Safe From Water Damage

Dealing with water damage is frustrating as it can ruin drywall, wood, personal possessions and floorboards. If you see some minor warnings like some leakage under a kitchen sink, consider yourself lucky. Many times, we don't see the leakage until it's too late and considerable damage has been done. In order to prevent surprise water damage, there are some measures you can take.

Inside Your Home

First off, check hoses around appliances and sinks such as your refrigerator, washing machine, dishwasher and water heater. Look for evidence of leaks such as drops of water, discolored wood or rust. Some parts may need to be replaced and can prevent a big headache later.

Sinks, bathtubs & showers can be recaulked for better seals. Grout also may need to be replaced in the shower.

A sump pump should be tested at least once a year and should be serviced within its life-span of typically 10-years. Consider a battery-operated sump pump that you can use as a back-up in the case of a power failure or failure of the primary pump.

As a special measure, try to move personal property stored in the basement, off the floors. Put furniture on casters and distance it from floor drains.

Lastly, you can always check for hidden leaks by checking your water meter reading and then turning off all appliances that use water and don't flush toilets or use the sinks for one hour. Check the water meter reading again to see if anything has changed.

Outside Your Home

Your roof should be free and clear of debris, leaves and other litter for proper drainage. Air should flow freely through the soffit and roof vents. Trees should be trimmed so that they are not hitting the roof. And, obviously watch for damaged shingles!

The gutters and downspouts also need to be free from debris. The downspouts should be at least 10 feet from the house so that water drains far from the foundation.

Ensure that there are no surfaces sloping toward your house. The ground around your house, and paved areas, should slope away from the house to keep the water from settling and pooling by your house. If you have an irrigation system, ensure it is not leaking or discharging too much water in one area.

Naturally, we cannot prevent any and every sort of water damage source, but performing these simple tasks might at least cut down on some of the possibilities to keep your home in good shape, inside and out. And in the event you do get water damage, call your insurance agent and ask what your home insurance covers.


Keep Your Home Safe From Water Damage

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Saturday, December 17, 2011

Simer Stainless Steel Sprinkler/Booster Pump - 600 GPH, 1 HP, 1in., Model# 2825SS

!: Lowest Price Simer Stainless Steel Sprinkler/Booster Pump - 600 GPH, 1 HP, 1in., Model# 2825SS Get it now!

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For residential and commercial use, ideal for boosting pressure to wash cars, boats, farm equipment and lawn sprinkling. Can be used as a portable sprinkler or water transfer pump. Supports multiple lawn sprinklers pumping from lakes,streams or ponds. Convenient carrying handle for easy portability. Not recommended for fish or plant life. UL listed. 1-year limited warranty. Flow (GPH): 600, Volts: 115, HP: 1, Max. Total Head (ft.): 25, Max. Suction Lift (ft.): 20, Max. PSI: 83, Suction Port (in.): 1, Discharge Port (in.): 1

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Saturday, December 10, 2011

Dayton 5RWG6 Pump, Sprinkler, 1 HP, 1 Ph

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Post Date : Dec 10, 2011 16:09:32 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


Sprinkler Pump, Self-Priming, Housing Material Cast Iron, Inlet 1-1/2 In, Outlet 1-1/2 In, 1 HP, 1 Phase, Voltage 115/208-230, Amps 18.72/9.54-9.36, 60 Hz, Suction Lift 25 Ft., Shut-Off 101 Ft., Max. Pressure 44 PSI, Stages 1, Motor Enclosure TEFC, Motor Type Capacitor-Start, Capacitor-Run, 3450 RPM, Application Lawn Sprinking, Spraying Irrigation, Draining and General Dewatering Application, Etc., Includes Manual

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Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Getting Your Fountain Through The Winter

!: Getting Your Fountain Through The Winter

In order to keep your outdoor water fountain in the best shape for many years, there are a few steps you should take to winterize it. The most important time to take these steps is before the first freeze. Completely disassembling your outdoor water fountain is the best way to protect it. After it is disassembled, clean out the pump and all the parts of the fountain. Then you will be able to store it away in your garage or shed.  However, if this is impractical because of size or weight, the following steps need to be taken in order to prevent cracking and other damages:      

1.       Drain all of the water out of your outdoor water fountain before the first freeze approaches.  

2.       Remove the pump from the fountain. Clean it of all debris and store indoors in a plastic container of water or a bucket. This will help to keep the gaskets from drying out.  

3.       Fill the basin of the fountain with an absorbent material such as towels, blankets or burlap. These items will absorb condensation and prevent the fountain from cracking due to contraction of water or expansion.  

4.       A good idea, also, is to cover the fountain with a fountain cover as an extra protection against cracking caused by moisture.  

Many cast stone and concrete fountains will develop tiny hairline cracks over time after exposure to the outdoor elements. These cracks are a natural occurrence and will not affect the functionality of the fountain. You will be glad you made the effort to insure that water does not freeze in your fountain. Freezing water inside a water fountain can cause damage to your pump and cracks in the fountain itself. Taking these few, preventive measures will give you many years of pleasure with your outdoor water fountain.In order to keep your outdoor fountain in the best shape for many years, there are a few steps you should take to winterize it. The most important time to take these steps is before the first freeze.

Completely disassembling your outdoor water fountain is the best way to protect it. After it is disassembled, clean out the pump and all the parts of the fountain. Then you will be able to store it away in your garage or shed. However, if this is impractical because of size or weight, the following steps need to be taken in order to prevent cracking and other damages:    

1.       Drain all of the water out of your water fountain before the first freeze approaches.  

2.       Remove the pump from the water fountain. Clean it of all debris and store indoors in a plastic container of water or a bucket. This will help to keep the gaskets from drying out.  

3.       Fill the basin of the fountain with an absorbent material such as towels, blankets or burlap. These items will absorb condensation and prevent the fountain from cracking due to contraction of water or expansion.  

4.       A good idea, also, is to cover the outdoor water fountain with a fountain cover as an extra protection against cracking caused by moisture.  

Many cast stone and concrete fountains will develop tiny hairline cracks over time after exposure to the outdoor elements. These cracks are a natural occurrence and will not affect the functionality of the fountain. You will be glad you made the effort to insure that water does not freeze in your fountain. Freezing water inside a water fountain can cause damage to your pump and cracks in the fountain itself. Taking these few, preventive measures will give you many years of pleasure with your outdoor water fountain.


Getting Your Fountain Through The Winter

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Sunday, November 27, 2011

Windmill Power To Pump Water

!: Windmill Power To Pump Water

One of the great things about using a windmill for power is that it is a renewable source and one that can be quite effective in taking care of certain aspects of both the home and small or commercial farm.

Home windmill use Windmill power can provide an excellent alternative for a number of household applications, the main one being as a water pump. A large portion of electricity that is used in a home with well water comes from having to pump that water from the well and into the house.

By using a windmill you can harness nature itself to do the work for you, pulling the water up and filling the tank. You can even set it up to provide the power to run it though a filtration system and into the house. If you live in an area that is low lying and tends to flood this can provide an effective solution to keeping water away from your home. The extra power can also be stored for future use in batteries, or returned to the main power grid and provide a small but additional source of income. A windmill can pay for itself in about five years so the cost is easy to manage.

Small farm windmill use

Windmills are also great for small farm use. They can provide a cost effective solution to providing water to crops and irrigation systems. Just like for home use, windmills can be used to draw water up from underground or provide the power necessary to pump the water from a water source that is near by but not readily usable for the farm. Windmills are also great when used for drainage applications.

You can use the windmill to draw water away from fields and other low-lying areas. Windmills are also excellent for use in reclaiming otherwise unusable land. With this wide variety of applications and functions that windmills can provide at no additional fuel cost, windmill power are an excellent solution for a small farm that needs these services. In addition, the cost of the windmill for small farm use is easy to manage when compared to the cost of having to use electricity or another type of power source in order to provide water or irrigation to the farm. Using a windmill can increase productivity, save crops and increase the amount of available land. Using windmill power for home or farm can provide an excellent way of replacing well pumps and saving on resources.

The wind is a never-ending resource that can be used at any time. The cost is easily managed for either home or small farm use through the savings in equipment and standard electrical power and the ability to transfer excess created energy into the main power grid and receive compensation from the power company.

With these advantages it is easy to see why windmills were popular and are becoming popular for both home water pumps and for watering needs on small farms. If you are looking into ways to be easier on the environment and provide for the needs of your family and lively hood than looking into windmills is one solution to consider.


Windmill Power To Pump Water

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Thursday, November 24, 2011

Reducing Fatal Fires in NYS Homes - Mandated Fire Sprinkler Systems As a Course of Action

!: Reducing Fatal Fires in NYS Homes - Mandated Fire Sprinkler Systems As a Course of Action

The purpose of this study is to analyze data from fatal fires in one- and two-family residences occurring in New York State from 2000 through 2006. This will help identify factors to conclude if the proposed mandate to install fire sprinkler systems in newly constructed homes is the best course of action to reduce fire deaths.

Most of the data was acquired through the Freedom of Information Law (FOIL) process from the State of New York Department of State's Office of Fire Prevention and Control's (OFPC's) Fire Reporting Unit. Information provided had been submitted to OFPC in varying levels of completeness by a variety of local government and firefighting sources subsequent to fatal fires. Some additional house age data was compiled through HomeInfoMax, an online realty site.

An Excel spreadsheet was developed compiling the following information: name of the volunteer fire department on call at the fire, number of deaths, year home was built and home address. A summation of total deaths and the average age of the dwelling were calculated for the seven year data period.

Findings:

There were 495 fatalities at 389 locations in New York in the subject period. Complete data was available for 123 sites (31.6%) which in all probability represent a statistically significant sample from which to draw sufficient preliminary conclusions. Notably, the sample shows that the homes in which a fatal fire occurred were constructed, on average, in 1940. Since improved building practices can result in safer homes, and evolving building codes take into account and reflect some of these practices, the ages of the subject homes provide a particularly important area of analysis. One of the most significant fire-related changes in building codes was the mandating of smoke detecting alarm devices in New York's new home construction in 1984, which is referenced below as an important milestone in the data reviewed. This was strengthened in 1995 when hard-wired alarms with battery back-up became mandatory for all new homes.

Out of the sample homes having fatal fires, 106 or 86.2% were constructed prior to 1984, before New York's smoke detecting alarm mandate. There were 139 individuals who lost their lives in these fires, representing 88.5% of the deaths included in the sample. A total of 23 incidents of multiple fatalities occurred in this group. Multiple deaths happened only once in the sample homes built after 1984. The sample includes only eleven fatalities in homes built in the ten year period between 1997 and 2006. Obviously, every death is heartbreaking but this information may indicate that a level of safety has been achieved in newer homes that would minimize the value of fire sprinkler systems when all factors are considered.

Discussion:

The data described above shows a dramatic difference between older and newer homes. It is clear that new homes have built-in precautions that are saving lives.

Fatalities, injuries and destruction resulting from residential fires are terribly tragic but preventable. The U.S. Department of Homeland Security highlights the seriousness of home fires by citing that in 2002 there were 401,000 residential fires throughout the United States, resulting in 2,695 civilian fire deaths, 14,050 civilian injuries and over billion in property damage. According to the U.S. Fire Administration, a fire occurs in a residential structure every 79 seconds. The question addressed here is whether mandating residential sprinkler systems in new homes is the best way to reduce fire deaths.

Following continuously improved electrical wiring codes, it is commonly accepted that the mandate requiring smoke detecting alarm installations in new homes had a dramatic and very positive influence on diminishing fire fatalities. For a relatively small investment and with proper maintenance, primarily installing fresh batteries on a regular basis for portable units, these alarms have been very successful. They have proven their worth thousands of times over. The majority of fatal fires in New York between 2000 and 2006 were in homes built prior to smoke detecting alarm requirements. Additional deaths could have been avoided if residents maintained their existing smoke detecting alarms, a low-cost, low-impact safety practice.

Mandating sprinkler systems, however, would substantially affect housing prices with a median installation cost of about ,000. As difficult as it is to confront, it is a fact that not every available safety feature can be made affordable and be absorbed in the cost of a product. Decisions are made every day by individuals weighing the risks of injury or death when buying automobiles, for instance. Pricing items out of the market, including homes, would have a dramatic effect on the economy, workforce and quality of life.

In addition to the installation costs, annual sprinkler maintenance and testing expenses are in the hundreds of dollars. Can most homeowners be counted on to consistently schedule and afford these services? Necessary repairs can vary greatly and technicians and parts are expensive. Costly system malfunctions can result in damages to furniture, floor coverings, appliances, clothing and other components. Also, introducing a new source of potentially damaging moisture into each home could be disastrous, especially with today's tighter, more energy-efficient homes. Two other factors to be considered are the potential for freezing and bursting pipes and the viability and costs associated with ensuring sufficient pump pressure and stand-by water in well systems. Due to these manifold serious concerns, it should be a homebuyer's option to determine if a sprinkler system is viable for their circumstances after receipt of all of the facts and descriptions of all possible consequences.

There have been suggestions that homeowner insurance discounts given for the existence of sprinkler systems will contribute greatly to paying down the cost of the systems. A recent thorough National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) report detailed findings regarding discounts, their amounts, sprinkler system costs and the payback time required to recoup investments in them. According to the NAHB, the median cost of a new home in New York in 2007 is 5,803 and the median annual cost of insurance for that home is 0. The average discount for having a Class A sprinkler system, weighted by insurance provider, is 11%. This represents an annual savings of .30 per year in New York. With the median cost for a sprinkler system, associated fees and other installation costs calculated to be ,573, the payback from insurance discounts for the system would be over 80 years, not a good investment by any means. If the sprinkler system's cost is included in a typically brokered purchase and financed mortgage, the payback for the system could climb to almost 100 years. And since insurance companies usually have a total cap of about 20% for discounts related to safety devices (e.g., deadbolt locks, burglar alarms and smoke detectors), given the large number of such features in many homes, the actual impact on the insurance payment could be very small or zero, greatly lengthening the payback period or making it incalculable.

Conclusion:

In conclusion, residential fire sprinkler systems are not economically viable and there is little proof that they reduce the risk of dying in a house fire. The need to mandate sprinklers in new one- or two-family homes has never been justified. Residential fire incidents, injuries and deaths continue to decline as newer housing stock increases its percentage of the whole. Advances in construction practices and materials, the effectiveness of smoke detecting alarms, and fire prevention and education efforts are working well. Mandating and installing smoke detecting alarms continues to be a more practical, cost effective and proven way to reduce fire casualties in the United States.

According to the Michigan Association of Homebuilders, new homes are safer than ever. Fire protection codes seek to reduce the number of casualties and home damage due to a fire. These codes include fire separation, fire blocking and draft stopping, emergency escape and rescue openings, electrical circuit breakers, capacity and outlet spacing and reduced need for space heaters in energy efficient homes. The majority of fatal fires are in older, substandard homes that do not contain the significant improvements in fire safety features of homes built to current code standards. Older homes can have building materials, space heaters, faulty wiring or other characteristics that might lead to a greater risk of a fire starting along with structural inadequacy or lesser ease of exit.

Smoke detecting alarms, along with fire safety education, play a major role in saving lives. They also save money. Per the United States Fire Administration, the average cost for interconnected, hard-wired smoke detecting alarms with battery backup is .00 per station. On the other hand, residential fire sprinkler systems in New York may cost many thousands of dollars and push hundreds of thousands of would-be homeowners out of the housing market due to this additional financial burden. The latest NAHB figures show that for every ,000 increase in the nationwide average cost of a new home, over 217,000 potential homebuyers are priced out of the market because they can no longer afford or qualify for a mortgage. Fallout from the sub-prime mortgage crisis will most certainly increase this number. A sprinkler system mandate would seem to contradict goals of increased affordable home ownership by New Yorkers.

The recommendation yielded from this study is in support of the continued use of smoke detecting alarms, and education of the public on their maintenance, along with vigilant existing code compliance, as the best courses of action to reduce fatal fires in New York State's new one- and two-family homes. Data included in this study show that the average home in which a fire fatality occurred was built in 1940. These homes probably did not have operational smoke detecting alarms and were not built to today's standards. Mandating residential fire sprinklers in homes in New York State is not an economically sound idea, there are operational shortcomings, they have not been proven to vastly save more lives and their costs will create barriers to entry level homebuyers.


Reducing Fatal Fires in NYS Homes - Mandated Fire Sprinkler Systems As a Course of Action

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Monday, November 21, 2011

Submersible Well Pump How to Replace

!: Submersible Well Pump How to Replace

Replacing a submersible well pump is not a complicated task and relatively simple if you understand the basics about a well system - like the placement of the pump, how the submersible pump operates and how it is installed in a well casing. An advanced do it yourselfer with knowledge of electrical wiring and some basic plumbing skills is probably capable of replacing a submersible irrigation pump. This is not a step by step installation guide but rather an overview for a general understanding to evaluate whether to do it yourself or hire a contractor. The savings on the cost of labor, if you do it yourself, will be about 50 - 60% of the total price of a contractor doing the job. The first factor in deciding whether to attempt doing it yourself is how deep the well is and do you have a large enough lay down area to layout the pipe in your yard once you start pulling it out of the casing. If your well is 50' to 150' deep, I would recommend doing it yourself if you are physically capable to continuously lift and pull about 40 to 70 pounds of weight and hold it in place for during the complete removal of pump to keep from dropping it back into the well. To do this you will need at least one other person to help you pull out the pump and guide the discharge pipe away from the well as you are lifting it out.

The well casing in made of steel, iron or PVC pipe usually 3"or 4" inside diameter and this acts as a sleeve in which the pump housing, discharge pipe and wiring go down to reach the water level within this pipe casing. Attached to the submersible pump is the discharge pipe, usually 1" to 1- ¼" flexible poly pipe and the electrical wiring which also runs into this casing to the depth of submersible pump in the well. The deeper the well, the heavier and more difficult it is to lift out. The weight of the pump assembly may require some rigging above the well casing to help lift and hold the pump assembly in place so it doesn't slip and drop back down into the well casing as you are pulling it out. Once you start pulling up of the pump you must continue the motion until it is fully out of the casing. If you are doing this manually attach a rope beforehand to the top end of well cap so the other person can easier hold on to it and tie it off to something - a tree or fence, in between lifts if you need to take a break and stop lifting.

If you decide to replace the well pump yourself, here are some tips to remember. Determine that the pump motor is bad by checking circuit breakers, switches and check that power is at the well head. If power is on at well head it is a good sign that the pump is broke. Turn off the power at the breaker panel, tag and lock it out for safety before you start exposing the well head. Clear the area around the well head, approx 6' to 8' diameter, of shrubs and plants so you have enough room to expose the pump outlet and electrical connections. Disconnect the discharge pipe and undo the wiring at the junction box near the top of the well. Loosen the bolts on top of the casing cover, this is a squeeze type of cover with a thick rubber ring that expands as tightened and contracts as loosened against the casing interior. Once loose, try to lift the cover, as you lift you will be getting an idea of how heavy the whole assembly is of which you have to lift out of the well.

Now you are ready to lift the pump. Rubber gloves, protective clothing or coveralls should be worn as the pump piping may have an iron and silt residue on the exterior and can be quite a messy job. Fasten a pull rope around the top of the well head for the other person to hold on and tie off if needed. Some wells may have a leader rope or cable already attached from original installation instead of relying on the discharge hose clamps and connection. The person who will do the actual pulling should stand directly above the well to lift the discharge piping straight out of the casing and the other person should stay with the top end of well cap and guide it to where you lay it down as you pull. Make sure that the person guiding the end has a good grip on the end before you release to get another grip. Continue until pump assembly is fully out of the casing and wash off the entire pump end so you read the specification tag of the pump.

Collect the information from the old pump - brand, model, HP, voltage, phase, 110/220, rpm, 2 or 3 wire configuration, continuous duty and the pumps outlet size and discharge pipe size. Most residential submersible pumps are either 2 wire or 3 wire configuration. The 2 wire type has 2 - 110v wires along with a case ground to pump housing. The 2 wire pump needs no controls. If it is a 3 wire pump you should replace the controls also.

Most submersible pump are two piece units bolted together to be one assembly and consists of the motor and the pump. You can just replace the motor or pump if you choose, but I would highly suggest that you replace the whole assembly. After you have identified what type and size pump you have you may want to decide to upgrade your system with a higher volume pump of keep the same configuration. For upgrading, you should contact a supplier or well contractor for recommendations to be compatible with your needs and piping sizes to which your pump feeds.

Installing the new pump assembly. Make an itemized list of new parts, controls, fittings or wiring as needed. If the existing wiring and flex pipe are in good condition there is no need to replace them. To install the new pump you will have to splice the electric wires together in a waterproof connection. Consult an electrician or well contractor to specify the power wire splice connector type and technique acceptable for well applications. Connect the pipe fittings and pipe clamps as directed in the manufacturer's instructions. Tape the power wires about every 2' for the entire length to the flex pipe for ease in reinstallation of pump into casing. Turn the power to the pump on momentarily to check if it is working before inserting assembly into well. Turn the power breaker off and prepare to insert the pump back into the well again using 2 people - one at the well opening lowering and feeding the pump down and the other person at the well head cover feeding the slack to you and to help hold back to prevent the pump from dropping quickly down the casing.


Submersible Well Pump How to Replace

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Friday, November 18, 2011

How Do Water Well Pumps Work?

!: How Do Water Well Pumps Work?

Some of the best tasting water comes from underground and to get to it, some digging must be done. Unless this liquid is being pumped from an artesian well, it might help to know more about this. Then you can answer the question about "How do water well pumps work?" Let's take a quick look.

Dig the well first. There used to be people known as Water Witches who could take a y-branched willow stick, walk around a field, and eventually find where to dig when the switch would point downward. Since those days of magical attraction, modern technology offers electronic equipment that can find the best place to start digging.

Install the casing down the shaft. Due to the nature of soil, digging a shaft down in the ground could result in the dirt collapsing and clogging up the access. When a well is being dug, or drilled, the workers insert a metal casing to prevent any collapse. It should extend all the way from the ground to the opening of the underground lake or water source.

When choosing what size tank to get, keep in mind that the more often the pump has to run, the sooner it will wear out and have to be replaced. The larger the holding tank, the less strain or use there will be on the pump. The size of the pump depends largely on how deep into the ground it is dug.

There are basically two types of pumps. One that remains above ground, called a jet pump creates a vacuum in the pipe. In this type of pump the suction action brings the liquid up and then into the holding tank. A submersible unit is mounted down at the bottom of the casing and pushes the liquid up the pipes and into the holding tank. Electricity is typically used to operate either of these pieces of equipment and should have a shut off switch and inline circuit protectors to keep from damaging either type of unit.

"How do water well pumps work?" is a question best answered by knowing that the motor which drives the unit either creates a vacuum that draws the water up from the ground or uses a pushing action that forces the liquid up from the ground and into a tank for future use. They are a very simple device used to bring that clear, fresh, sweet tasting liquid to the surface for the maintenance of life.


How Do Water Well Pumps Work?

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